ExcursionNakasendo Connections: Narai-juku to Kiso-Hirasawa

Narai-juku and Kiso-Hirasawa

The Nakasendo was one of five major routes between Edo (pre-modern Tokyo) and Kyoto. Established in the early 1600s, this road through the inner mountains, which includes Kiso, was used by feudal lords on their mandatory journeys to the capital, merchants, and others travelling on official business. This was the Edo period (1603 – 1868), and back then Narai-juku and Kiso-Hirasawa were a single entity called "Narai Village." Eventually, Narai developing as a post town providing accommodation to weary travelers, while Kiso-Hirasawa flourished as a center of lacquerware production.

The Nakasendo runs through Narai-juku

Of the Nakasendo’s 69 post towns, 11 of them are on the Kisoji, the Kiso Valley portion of the route. At 940 meters, Narai-juku is the Kisoji’s highest post town. It was often packed with travelers due to its proximity to the notoriously difficult Torii Pass. Its roughly 1 km of scenic streetscape is the longest stretch of traditional post town in Japan. Local residents have carefully preserved Narai’s historic architecture over the years. On this tour, you'll meet someone who had dedicated herself to the effort.

Chosenji Meet someone working hard to help preserve Narai’s streetscape

The first person you'll meet is Yukako Ohashi. She helps the 90-year-old head priest and his wife care for Chosenji, a Soto Zen temple founded in 1366, with later ties to the Tokugawa shogunate (which established the Nakasendo). Chosenji’s head priest played a key role in the preservation efforts that led to Narai-juku becoming a National Cultural Property. Ohashi-san will share the challenges they faced at the time and the deep connection they and the temple have to Narai-juku.

Kiso Hirasawa From Narai to Kiso-Hirasawa

From Narai-juku, we stroll a walkway beside the clear-flowing Narai River as we make our way to Kiso-Hirasawa.

Kiso-Hirasawa lacquerware

Kiso-Hirasawa has maintained its lacquerware tradition using the region’s high-quality timber for over 400 year. Through the centuries, artisans adapted daily items like wooden sandals and combs to demand from travelers along the Nakasendo, reflecting trends in Edo and Kyoto. Those woodworking and lacquerware skills have been passed down to today, and many artisans still live and create in Kiso-Hirasawa. Lacquerware has a unique, natural beauty. It’s highly durable and, with occasional repairs, can last almost indefinitely—an eco-friendly craft that can be handed down for generations.

Ito Kanji Shoten Meet an artisan who helps keep Kiso’s lacquerware tradition alive

Next, you'll meet Hiroshige Ito, the fourth-generation owner of Ito Kanji Shoten founded in the Edo period. Built in 1911, Ito-san still uses its traditional storehouse today as a lacquer-coating workshop where he works hard to create durable and pleasantly textured lacquerware for daily life. Ito Kanji Shoten is known for its original dark vermilion lacquer that gradually grows brighter and more lustrous with use, recalling the hues of the sunset.

Ito Kanji Shoten Meet an artisan who helps keep Kiso’s lacquerware tradition alive

Traditionally, storehouses were used for applying lacquer, but few artisans use them today. This tour provides a rare opportunity to visit Hiroshige Ito’s workshop, the oldest storehouse still used for lacquer application in Kiso-Hirasawa.
There you'll experience the workshop’s historic atmosphere, learn about Kiso lacquerware, and find out about the village from the perspective of a skilled artisan.

Narakawa Elementary and Junior High School Meet the children, the future of our community.

We then walk on to Narakawa Elementary and Junior High School, the only school in the area, located midway between Narai-juku and Kiso-Hirasawa. The children’s lunches at school are served in Kiso lacquerware, so they grow up experiencing the region’s traditional craft as part of their daily life. Once a year, they refinish their lacquerware under the guidance of an artisan, and learn to repair it as needed so they can use it long term. When we visit Narakawa School, you'll see for yourself how the children learn to respect local traditions and culture in their everyday lives.

Narakawa Elementary and Junior High School Visit the planted lacquer trees

Despite its reputation, Kiso lacquerware today faces a severe shortage of artisans to carry on the tradition. To address this, the school has teamed up with the Kiso Lacquerware Youth Club, a group of young artisans, to launch the Nurturing Lacquerware Project. They hope that by exposing students to lacquerware, more will be inspired to become artisans or advocates of the craft. To that end, they planted lacquer trees on the school grounds, with the goal of using the sap to refinish lunchware once the trees mature. The initiative aims to pass down traditional lacquer practices across generations.

Narakawa Elementary and Junior High School Have a Bento lunch at cafeteria

Our tour ends with a local homemade lunch we bring with us in the same Kiso hinoki cypress cafeteria where the children eat their meals. Look up and you’ll see framed calligraphy that reads "Learning from the Mountains." As we eat, we might chat about the future of these children who live, learn, and grow with the mountains and forests of Kiso, as well as the future of the region.

*Please note that a portion of the proceeds from this tour supports restoration work at Chosenji Temple, local educational activities at Narakawa Elementary and Junior High School, and tree planting for the Nurturing Lacquerware Project.